Allbirds Unveiled: How Sustainable Are They and Should You Buy In?
Allbirds is an athleisure brand best known for their sustainable sneakers for men and women.
Launched in 2016, Allbirds stepped onto the scene with the Wool Runner sneaker. Since then they have expanded, also offering additional footwear, as well as clothing and accessories.
This guide helps educate conscious consumers on Allbirds ethics and eco-friendly initiatives to decide if this shoe brand is a good fit!
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However, within a few years the company was in dire straits as their shares lost more than 95% of their value.
Their attempt to branch into performance gear did not work out as envisioned, they were slapped with a lawsuit claiming they weren’t as humane or green as they made out to be, and the Wool Runner itself faced criticism for its lack of durability – not a good look for a brand claiming to be sustainable.
Does that mean they don’t deserve the eco-friendly label? Let’s take a deeper dive.
What Materials Do Allbirds Use?
It’s all in the name: the Wool Runner is so called because it’s made of Merino wool. Allbirds also uses other natural materials like sugarcane, cotton, and castor bean oil.
Their style is minimalist, with component parts left out wherever feasible. Not only does this simplify the look of the shoe, but by requiring fewer parts (all of which require resources to manufacture) it cuts down on the product’s overall footprint.
Allbirds also makes use of synthetic materials. To avoid sourcing virgin synthetics – which place a great strain on the environment – they make use of repurposed synthetics like recycled polyester, usually for component parts like laces.
In an effort to work with more natural and sustainable materials, they have created their own. These include SweetFoam, made from renewable sugarcane and used for soles.
The formula has even been made open source, allowing other companies to make and use this material, which acts like EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate), a type of copolymer popularly used for shoe soles and flip flops.
Yay for sharing this eco-conscious material with others to encourage more sustainability in business!
When it comes to clothing and accessories, Allbirds uses both recycled synthetics and natural materials.
Grappling for a foothold back into the sustainable fashion limelight, Allbirds revealed the M0.0nshot shoe in 2023, due for release in 2025 as a carbon zero shoe.
This grey, sock-like shoe uses three sustainable materials: regeneratively farmed Merino wool from New Zealand, SweetFoam, and a methane-based bioplastic.
Is Allbirds Greenwashing?
Maybe? It depends what aspects of sustainability are most important to you!
Allbirds place a lot of emphasis on being sustainable. Allbirds does score well on their B Corporation certification assessment. You can read their 2020 Impact Score report.
They promote this not only through the materials and design of their shoes, but on being certified carbon neutral.
Here is where it can get tricky. Excessive carbon emissions are bad for the environment and carbon neutral is a complex term, and it has often been called out as being a form of greenwashing, mostly when that neutrality is a result of purchasing carbon credits or carbon offsets.
Recognizing the idea that carbon neutrality is controversial, Allbirds has made the M0.0nshot shoe carbon negative.
While carbon neutral refers to balancing the amount of carbon dioxide you emit into the atmosphere with the amount you remove, carbon negative refers to removing more carbon than you emit.
This may also rely on carbon credits and offsets, as well as methods such as working with regenerative farms that use farming methods to capture more carbon than they emit, like the New Zealand farm from which Allbirds sources the wool for the M0.0nshot.
One of these regenerative practices includes planting trees and vegetation among crops, a process known as agroforestry. While this is important, it needs to be carefully thought out and go hand in hand with protecting existing forests.
Is the Allbirds Supply Chain Ethical and Circular?
Despite stating that their supply chain is “small” and “tight-knit”, it takes a lot for a pair of sneakers to get made.
Shoes are assembled in South Korea, with knitting and more hand assembly taking place in China. Socks are made in North Carolina.
Additionally Allbirds works with manufacturers and subcontractors in Peru, Vietnam, Indonesia, and Guatemala.
There is not a lot of detail on the transparency with the factories and subcontractors.
With product names like Wool Lounger, Merino Tee, and their famed Wool Runner it’s obvious that wool forms a big part of their supply chain.
Allbirds works with suppliers like ZQ Merino to ensure the use of ethical, sustainable wool; and they are aiming to source all their wool from regenerative sources by 2025.
They have faced backlash from PETA for misrepresenting their Merino wool as being ethically sourced, eco-friendly, and sustainable and were taken to court. Although this resulted in bad press, the case was dismissed because PETA’s claims were found not to relate to Allbirds’ wool in particular.
Allbirds tries to promote circular fashion by inviting consumers to return used shoes that are then donated to Soles4Souls.
Additionally, they have a resale platform called ReRun that allows you to shop for second-hand shoes or shoes with slight imperfections. However, due to the sneakers’ lack of durability many of them end up in landfills instead.
I’ve purchased a few pairs of Allbirds and while I enjoy the comfort and look of them, they usually start wearing down after 2-3 years. In particular my wool shoes got holes in them.
Should You Be Shopping Allbirds?
Allbirds are not perfect, but like much else when you’re shopping for sustainable items, if you make a comparison, it’s likely better than a lot of alternatives.
I personally think Allbirds can be a good choice when shopping for shoes. I like their use of natural materials. However, I do think they could be doing more. I think the durability of the shoes could definitely use some work.
Allbirds’ designs and materials are pretty sustainable but when it comes to product performance, you have to take extra care of your sneakers and be careful where and how you wear them.
Carbon neutrality and making a carbon negative shoe is not a “cure-all”, but at least Allbirds is seeking alternatives and pushing to find out what else they can do.
They are aiming to be net zero by 2030, which means reaching neutrality on all greenhouse gas emissions, not just carbon dioxide.
Hopefully their next moves will include finding more active means of reducing their emissions as opposed to relying too much on something like carbon credits.
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MEET THE AUTHORS
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Claudia Hauter is a South African writer, copy editor, and content creator with degrees in Drama and Anthropology. She works in television managing web content. When she isn’t reading or writing, she’s walking her dog, finding small businesses and markets to support, or attracting butterflies and bees with her vegetable garden. Learn from Claudia on Twitter or Instagram.
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Emily Waddell is the founder of The Honest Consumer. She has always been passionate about business for good and has a Bachelor degree in Social Entrepreneurship. She currently lives in Seattle where she practices imperfect sustainability. When she’s not writing, Emily enjoys supporting small businesses, clean eating, ethical fashion, & practicing slow living. Learn more about Emily’s journey starting The Honest Consumer.